Copenhagen Fashion Week [CPHFW] is reinstalling its NEWTALENT scheme, supported by CIRCULOSE, to champion emerging talents in the Nordics for the AW24 edition. Four brands, including Rolf Ekroth and Nicklas Skovgaard, alongside newcomers Alectra Rothschild/Masculina and Stamm, will be featured on the CPHFW platform throughout the week at an appointment-based showroom, which is open to the public on February 2.
Additionally, Martin Quad, Sloth Rousing, and MLGA have been recognized as “One To Watch” and will showcase their collections through various formats. The dedicated Copenhagen Fashion Week NEWTALENT Showroom, supported by CIRCULOSE, will offer industry leaders a glimpse of the participating brands, including alumni like Latimmier and MLGA.
CPHFW has its share of well-developed fashion names surface to larger markets over the decades, including Henrik Vibskov, Ganni, Stine Goya, and Tekla fabrics. With precedent on the next generation, the “One To Watch” brands have scheduled presentations, events, and installations, emphasizing their unique visions. The mentorship program, featuring industry leaders such as Julie Gilhart and Clara Cornet, adds a valuable dimension by guiding each participating brand.
Finnish-Swedish designer Rolf Ekroth, in his second season within the scheme, has a unique journey in the fashion world. Pursuing social work early in his career, Ekroth shifted to fashion after a friend noticed his interest in clothing. After graduating from Helsinki’s Aalto University in 2015, Ekroth engaged in collaborative projects, became a finalist at the Hyères Festival, and won the Designers’ Nest competition.
Relaunching his eponymous label independently in 2020 during the pandemic, Ekroth continues to make his mark in the fashion industry. Following the pandemic, his attention turned to sustainable manufacturing, incorporating environmentally friendly textiles. Presently, he employs 75% recycled materials, maintaining quality standards. Intricate handmade elements such as crochet and knits contribute to the brand’s uniqueness and echo his family’s crafting heritage. Past collections revolved around the theme of “missing,” drawing inspiration from diverse, fleeting generations.
Established in 2020, Copenhagen-based brand Nicklas Skovgaard, in its second season within the scheme, explores the expressive potential of textiles by blending unexpected materials with classical forms. Self-taught in weaving by Skovgaard crafts unique textiles, experimenting with combinations like hand-woven wool merged with water-repellent fabric, silk taffeta, and stretch jerseys.
His collections have been presented twice a year, and exhibit an evolutionary purpose, building upon each other and cultivating a distinctive design vocabulary. Positioned on the edge of romanticism and realism, Nicklas Skovgaard is set to showcase on the official schedule of CPHFW NEWTALENT for SS24 and AW24.
Established in 2022 by Danish designer Elisabet Stamm, Stamm is a Scandinavian brand with a global perspective. The brand, winner of the ZSA Zalando Sustainability Award, made its debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week with the AW23 runway show. Elisabet Stamm describes her creative approach as ‘truck poetry,’ drawing inspiration from her globetrotting family background, vibrant personality, and visionary mindset. Stamm’s distinctive characteristic lies in dualism, manifesting in contrasts like strong vs. sensitive, high fashion with a low-key approach, truck vs. couture, and calm vs. dynamic. The brand values diverse interactions, and ‘exchange’ is an integral part of its identity.
Alectra Rothschild, the creative mind behind MASCULINA, is a trained tailor who pursued fashion studies at Beckmans College of Design, MA Fashion under Fabio Piras at Central Saint Martins and delved into sustainability and fashion at The Royal Danish Academy. Having trained with luminaries like Iris Van Herpen and Anne Sofie Madsen, Alectra began her fashion career at Mugler under Casey Cadwallader’s creative direction and later freelanced for Alexander McQueen, collaborating with Birkenstock.
Recognized as a standout in Copenhagen Fashion Week, Alectra has earned accolades from i-D and Dazed, featuring on the Dazed100 List 2022. Notably, she was the first CPHFW NEWTALENT: One to Watch for FW23 and delivered a performance at CPHFW SS24 presented by Viscose Journal. MASCULINA has dressed celebrities like Arca, MØ, Zara Larsson, and Michéle Lamy.
Vital partnerships by CIRCULOSE, including MONPURE, GANNI, Esprit, and Birger Christensen Collective, support CPHFW NEWTALENT and their collections and fashion week exposé. CIRCULOSE, a Next Generation material, is crafted from 100% recycled textiles, contributing to sustainable fashion by utilizing worn-out clothes and production scraps, ultimately replacing the need for virgin materials like cotton. Additionally, MONPURE, recognized as the Official Hair Sponsor of CPHFW NEWTALENT, collaborates with emerging brands to create runway-ready styles while prioritizing the hair and scalp health of models at the AW24 shows.
The involvement of Bursary Partner Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize and support from Statens Kunstfond underline the financial economy provided to NEWTALENT participants. Fashion in Helsinki, ALPHA, which features young, emerging brands like Alex Luonto, a part of the ALPHA finalist designers competition, led by Ane Lynge-Jorlen, its creative director, and Special Advisor Ane Lynge-Jorlén continue to play essential roles in supporting and advising emerging talents. As the AW24 edition unfolds, CPHFW’s robust support system and strategic partnerships remain crucial to the platform for fostering creativity, innovation, and sustainability in the Nordic fashion landscape.