In February this year, when Belgian designer Meryll Rogge made her debut as creative director of Marni, she had one key objective. “I need to make sure I don’t fuck it up,” she told me at the time. But she wasn’t just concerned about fucking it up for herself; she was worried that if she failed, she’d be fucking it up for all women in fashion. As one of the few female designers at the head of a major luxury house, Rogge felt the pressure to prove that women are more than capable of designing and selling clothes. It’s a responsibility that she doesn’t take lightly, and unsurprisingly, her debut was a hit.
After laying her foundations at the brand seven months ago, earlier this week, the designer presented her sophomore show. In the world of music, it’s widely acknowledged that an artist’s second album is the real test. If successful, it cements their place in the industry – or, if unsuccessful, tips them into the cursed one-hit-wonder category. In fashion, the sophomore show is arguably just as revealing. While a debut often involves honouring the brand’s past – proving to the world that a designer understands and respects what the house stands for – the second collection can afford them more freedom to begin asserting their own flair.
At Marni SS27, Rogge catapulted the brand into the present day with a fresh, dynamic offering. Still unmistakably Marni, its identity remained as strong as ever. The codes we associate with the house were all present: clashing prints resembling 70s wallpaper, kooky details and art teacher-like accessories. But while Marni was founded in the early 90s, this collection looked further back to the 60s through its silhouettes – sack dresses, miniskirts and leg warmers that gave the appearance of knee-high boots, held up with thin leather suspenders.
A series of striped, on-trend pedal pushers and tucked-in windbreakers brought things back to the present. Meanwhile, the highlight of the collection was a halterneck V-neck sweater, offering a glimpse of where Rogge might take Marni menswear next. We’re already well-acquainted with the Marni woman, but in 2027, we can expect to see much more of the Marni man.
