There is a particular kind of pleasure in wearing an outfit that reveals itself slowly. A glimpse of fabric here. An unexpected proportion there. A pop of colour playing hide and seek. Each element gives the eyes somewhere new to land. And this season, the runways were full of such moments. At Maison Margiela’s autumn/winter 2026 show, creative director Glenn Martens turned layering into an art form by draping dresses over simple base layers until each look resembled a craft exhibit. It spoke to a wider mood, with more is more taking on a further polished, ladylike role. At Valentino, high-waisted skinny jeans were paired with floor-length coats and cummerbunds in clashing colours. Another look piled faux fur, fringe and pleats over contrasting separates, turning apparent chaos into something surprisingly cohesive. This is not layering for practicality. Designers are building looks piece by piece with a distinctly feminine sensibility guiding each addition.
Nowhere does this sense of styling feel more at home than in the Arab world, where this aesthetic has never really been a “trend”. “The fabulous women of the Middle East were on the moodboards and the inspiration behind this,” says Rawdah Mohamed, a Somali Norwegian fashion creator, model and activist, long recognised for her mastery of layering within a modest framework. It is a vantage point that gives her claim real weight. “Not only is it relevant for the region, but it’s where it originated. They have perfected the art and do it differently in the Middle East compared to when they’re vacationing in Europe. The traditional abaya is worn on top of either dresses or pants and then comes the scarf. It’s a natural way of styling.”
Mohamed is quick to point out the pitfalls too. “It can be tricky because if you aren’t careful with layering modest clothing, you can end up looking like a curtain or tent as everything gets very boxy with fabric everywhere. I tend to choose one part of the outfit to do it – either the top or bottom.” She adds that accessories are often the easiest way in. They’re more comfortable and less risky, whether it’s gloves, a triangle scarf around the waist or a cardigan over the shoulders.
The runways offered a wealth of ideas for putting this advice into practice. At Miu Miu, sheer fabrics added depth without concealment. A translucent black blouse sat over a delicate pink camisole, paired with grey trousers revealing a burgundy layer at the waist and finished with an embellished belt. At Chanel, proportions heightened the effect. Drop-waist silhouettes appeared alongside clever illusions: a long sweater over a straight skirt, its hem hitting at drop-waist length, finished with a jacket. Lanvin paired deconstructed coats and broad-shouldered blazers with cascading skirts, while exaggerated hats and gloves added further concealment.
Givenchy went maximalist, offsetting an animal-print jacket with bright yellow flower-like gloves, while a textured asymmetric dress was coupled with thigh-high boots and a half-cape tied at the neck. Across these collections, one trick kept resurfacing – covered hands. Gloves became an extension of the clothes themselves, whether disappearing into sleeves or standing out in clashing colours and amplified volumes. More than being a finishing touch, they helped pull even the most complex looks together while adding to the season’s distinctly elegant mood.
