For the past few seasons, fashion has been fixated on the waist. It all started with belts, which went from being practical (and somewhat overlooked) accessories to one of the defining features of an outfit. On the runways of fashion houses such as Schiaparelli and Simone Rocha, we saw looks featuring belts adorned with oversized buckles, as well as outfits styled with two or three belts, often taking centre stage. Wearing multiple belts at once became one of the season’s biggest styling trends, but as is so often the case, fashion quickly moved on in search of something exciting and new.
Without abandoning its obsession with accentuating the waist, fashion swapped belts for another accessory enjoying a renaissance in recent seasons: the scarf. The silk scarf moved from the neck to the waist, where it became one of the favourite ways to elevate an outfit, but its transformation didn’t stop there. It began taking on entirely new roles, even becoming a garment in its own right, as demonstrated by collections from Celine and Altuzarra. But back to the waist. Alongside scarves, various versions of peplum belts (and other similar accessories that resemble a charming hybrid of a miniskirt and a belt) have emerged as major trends. Fashion trends, however, are constantly changing, just as fashion itself keeps returning to old ideas. All of this has ultimately led to the revival of an accessory we might never have expected to see in women’s wardrobes: the cummerbund.
The fascinating history of the cummerbund
Although today we most commonly associate it with tuxedos and formal black-tie occasions, the cummerbund originally served a far more practical purpose. Its roots lie in India and Persia, where men wore it to protect their midsections from the evening chill, before European traders eventually brought it to the West. In England, it was reportedly popularised by the Prince of Wales following a visit to India in the 1870s, who envisioned it as part of sailing attire and an accessory to the dinner jacket. Its journey into European wardrobes, however, was not without criticism. French fashion commentators initially regarded the wide silk sash with considerable disdain, dismissing it as a tasteless substitute for the traditional waistcoat. What we now consider the height of elegance was once seen as a sign of “bad taste”.
Dries Van Noten Fall 2026, gorunway.com
Despite the criticism, it didn’t take long for the silk sash to find its place alongside the men’s dinner jacket, and its popularity is reportedly owed to an unusually hot London summer in the late 19th century. As an alternative to the waistcoat, the cummerbund gradually became part of the men’s black-tie dress code. Its purpose is both practical and aesthetic: it wraps around the waistband of the trousers, conceals the tucked-in part of the shirt and prevents the shirt from coming untucked (because nobody wants that). Most commonly black and made from silk, it is characterised by pleats worn facing upwards and, if we’re following proper etiquette (which, of course, we are!), it should be paired with a bow tie. Although most closely associated with men’s formalwear, the cummerbund has also made appearances in women’s fashion. Christian Dior included it in his autumn/winter 1948 collection, notably in the Girouette cocktail dress, which came with a matching waist sash.
Related: I found this season’s most controversial menswear trend in old family photographs
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The cummerbund in contemporary fashion
Until recently, it was a somewhat forgotten accessory, spotted on stylish gentlemen only on the rarest of occasions. This spring, however, the cummerbund returned in an entirely new context. It has stepped out of the men’s wardrobe and is no longer confined to the black-tie dress code. Fashion brands including Valentino, Polo Ralph Lauren, Kallmeyer and Dries Van Noten brought it back to the runway, reimagining it in a fresh way: more colourful and playful, crafted from unconventional materials and incorporated into unexpected outfits.
How to wear a cummerbund
Judging by street style photographs from the world’s fashion capitals, trendsetters have embraced it as an accessory that not only defines the waist but also offers plenty of opportunities to experiment with the details that bring an outfit together. Its appeal lies in its ability to elevate even the simplest look, whether that’s a shirt and jeans, to which it lends a touch of elegance, or a flowing boho dress, to which it adds structure. If current trends are anything to go by, the cummerbund is no longer reserved for formal occasions or strictly defined menswear looks. It’s now worn casually, as part of everyday outfits and alongside pieces we would never have associated with it until recently. The only rule, it seems, is that there are no rules.
Here’s how the street style crowd is wearing the cummerbund this season:
